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Our new puppy, Magic, has jumbo-size paws. He uses them quite effectively to hold down toys, scratch himself, pounce on grasshoppers, and paw-pat (or paw-pound!) everything of interest. Along with those monster-size paws comes a keen set of claws that grow and constantly need trimming.
Most active dogs, allowed to run outside, naturally wear the nails to a manageable length and may not need frequent trimming. However, dogs that spend most of their time inside — like Magic — often require monthly or more frequent nail attention. The toenails of Chihuahuas seem to grow quickly.
Over-grown nails can become caught in bedding and carpets and may split or tear. Keeping the toenails trimmed is healthier for the pet and helps reduce inappropriate digging some dogs are prone to indulge in. Dewclaws on the inside of the lower leg need particular attention since they never contact the ground.
Nails at their longest should just clear the ground when the dog is standing. If you hear him “clicking” over the linoleum like a tap-dancer, he needs a trim. Overgrown nails cause the foot to spread or splay and can even curl and grow back into the dog’s flesh.
Your groomer or veterinarian can trim your dog’s nails at routine visits, but it’s easy enough to do yourself. A variety of commercial nail trimmers are available with scissor-action or guillotine style to cut the dog’s toenails at the proper angle without splitting or crushing the nail. Dog nails may also need to be filed after trimming. Use an emery board or a nail file available from a pet supply store to smooth the edges and keep them from getting caught in the carpet.
I began handling Magic’s puppy paws as soon as he arrived home. The breeder had already begun the lessons with regular trims and, thankfully, he’s not at all paw-shy. Some dogs absolutely hate having their paws handled.
With youngsters, trim just the tip of the nails every week even if they don’t need it or at least touch his toes with the trimmer so he knows it’s not painful or scary. When he lets you handle his paws or clip a nail, give him a treat and a “good boy!” This gets him used to the idea. What he learns to accept as a puppy is more easily endured as an adult. This is particularly helpful with large-breed dogs that can be handled more easily while puppy-size.
All the nails don’t have to be done in the same session. If you’re having difficulty getting the job done, finish the other toes later. It’s helpful to have two pairs of hands during nail trimming, one to steady the paw while you handle the clippers. A wiggling dog makes it more likely you’ll catch the hair in the trimmer (painful!) or “quick” the nails, cut into the living vessels that feed the nail bed and cause them to bleed. If you do happen to quick a nail, use a styptic pencil or corn starch and direct pressure to stop the bleeding, or rake the claw through a bar of soap.
When the nails are white or clear, the pink quick is visible and makes it easy to avoid the danger zone. However, dog toenails are often dark or opaque and the quick can’t be seen, so clip off only the tips, the hook-like portion that turns down. This is especially important if the nail has been allowed to overgrow, because the quick will grow further down, too. Tipping the nails will prompt the quick to draw back up, so you can trim a little each week until reaching the proper length.
Always reward your dog for enduring a nail trim. Tell him what a good dog he is, and play a favorite game to show how pleased you are. Reserve a special treat that the dog gets only after a successful nail trim, and soon you’ll have your pooch begging for a pedicure.
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