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    Published on 05-20-12 09:40 AM

    PetGroomer.com has created a new list of educational sources for grooming career seekers looking for grooming schools, home study and career opportunities. The report has been updated for 2018-2019 and be sure to get a free subscription to PetGroomer.com Magazine.

    Published on 04-05-12 03:18 PM

    The online statistics are now published in PetGroomer.com eMagazine, formerly eGroomer Journal www.petgroomermagaziner.com. Refer to the issues for January/March 2014 for the 2012 results, January/March 2012 for the 2011 results, July/August 2011 issue for 2010 results and 2012 results are in the January/March 2013 issue. For 2014 forward download the January/March issue for each year.
    Published on 02-12-11 07:31 AM

    by Melissa Verplank www.melissaverplank.com Copyright 2011 All Rights Reserved

    Eight ways to overcome anxiety and channel nervous energy to perform your best

    Whether you are looking to certify, enter a grooming competition or other highly visible display, the seasoned pros seem to have total control over their situation: calm, cool, and collected in their thoughts.

    Looks, however, can be deceiving. Beneath the surface of total control, even the most seasoned, show-savvy competitors get butterflies in their stomachs. They experience the same sort of show jitters and performance anxiety that plagues those who compete at lower levels. But seasoned stylists eventually learn to use those gut-churning sensations to their advantage. They productively channel their nervous energy rather that allow negative thoughts and feelings to overwhelm them and interfere with their performance.

    Everyone gets nervous. It’s normal - even the elite in the pet styling world become nervous - but they learn to work with it. You have to train yourself to like the feeling and see it as an asset.

    A Bundle of Nerves
    Performance anxiety reveals itself in many forms: stomach misery, sweating, shortness of breath, fidgeting, tension throughout the body, chattiness, uncharacteristic silence. Some stylists are wracked with anxiety from the moment they wake up the day of the competition or certification, others get a burst of butterflies just before entering the stage.

    No matter how or when performance anxiety occurs, it usually is fueled by the fear of failure. Many stylists place great pressure on themselves to do well. Others feel compelled to do everything in their power not to disappoint their employers, fellow staff members, or family members. Those who enter the contest arena or testing site with a client dog have the added responsibility to do a good job to please the owner. Some groomers are deathly afraid of embarrassing themselves in front of an audience.

    To a certain degree, many people are predisposed to being overly anxious. It’s a part of their persona and temperament, just as some folks are normally laid-back or unflappable.

    Actually there’s little difference physiologically between excitement and fear. While one person says, ‘oh boy, here I go’ the next person is saying ‘Oh no, here it comes again.’ The feelings are much the same. The difference is that one is positive while the other is negative.

    Those that work through anxiety may be nervous prior to performing, but they are able to set aside the negative feelings and focus on the skills they need when it’s time to compete or start testing. In contrast, stylists who can’t get past their nervousness extract less and less pleasure from competing or testing. Worse still, performance anxiety can crush confidence and divert attention for completing the familiar steps of an established trim, which reinforces the feeling of being unprepared.

    Because dogs are highly attuned to our feelings, they can sense when something is amiss with a groomer’s emotions. Although some dogs are not rattled by what they sense from their handlers, others become increasingly anxious, especially when they are already distracted by the sights and sounds of unfamiliar surroundings.

    1. Set Yourself Up To Succeed
    Select a good dog you feel comfortable working with, choose a trim you are familiar with, and study high quality reference material.

    2. Develop Proficiency and Skills Beyond What You’ll Test
    You’ll be more likely to succeed when you start at lower level that’s less challenging than what you are accustomed to at home, whether that means choosing a simple trim to execute, a smaller dog to work on, or a better coat to scissor. Everything you do should be easier, not more difficult, when you’re in a show or testing atmosphere: that’s what builds confidence.

    3. Simulate the Show or Testing Experience
    Attend small clinics or go to a trade show or conformation dog show and hire a seasoned competitor to be your coach. Videotaping yourself adhering to the time restraints of typical grooming class is highly beneficial as well

    4. Focus on the Task
    To heighten awareness of the specific challenges that lie ahead, plan your trimming process on the dog. Dissect the time you have allotted for each area of the dog, visualize the finished profile you want to create - see the velvet scissor finish. Think through the entire haircut, don’t just start whacking off hair and hope for a positive outcome.

    5. Accentuate the Positive
    Negative thoughts take a toll on your mood as well as your confidence, and they can inadvertently slip you up at an inopportune moment. Concentrate on modifying your thoughts in a positive tone. Remind yourself to keep your shoulders relaxed, your hand smooth and steady, and move with your hips and knees when you are scissoring.

    6. Rely on Imagery to Get You Through Tough Spots
    Imagery is more powerful than internal dialog or self-statements when it comes to helping a person access his or her internal resources. For that perfectly scissored coat, think of crushed velvet. Or visualize a photo or a drawing of the perfect dog you want to create. Close your eyes and take deep breaths envisioning the image perfectly in your mind. Focus on a positive image rather than thinking about failure or a disaster.

    7. Give Yourself Time to Regroup
    When all your preparations are accomplished – your dog is bathed and fluffed, you’re dressed to step into the ring, your tools are in order – give yourself a break from the hustle and bustle of the competitive environment and take a few moments to gather your thoughts.

    8. Turn it Into a Learning Experience
    Everyone wants to win but facts are facts and the placements only go so high. When I would head to the ring, I always wanted to give my best performance, but I’d play a mind-game with myself too; I would say to myself “Melissa, what’s the worst thing that could happen?” The answer was always, “I could be out of the placements with my dog. I’ve dealt with a lot worse…” One of the best learning tools you’ll ever get is personal critiques from seasoned pros. The grooming tips you can pick up at a show are invaluable to your career as you gain grooming knowledge.

    Feeling you can compete with confidence allows you to enjoy the experience. You may always have to work at managing your nerves, but as your self-assurance grows and you learn to channel your thoughts productively into your performance, your anxiety will dissipate. And when you’re done competing, you may even think, “That really wasn’t so bad after all.”

    Get used to your anxiety. Don’t be rattled by the way it makes you feel. Embrace it and eventually you’ll discover how to use it to put your best foot forward in every competition.

    Just what are those ingredients on those product labels? First, here are our sponsors that make this Industry Resources section possible. Thank you for supporting our sponsors.

    This Industry Directory may include additional companies below that are not advertising sponsors. To apply for a complimentary basic listing click here. Pet grooming businesses are not listed here. See www.findagroomer.com for a free account in the Find A Groomer Directory for Pet Owners.

    Stress is well-known to groomers. Our responsibilities are many and we work with precious living animals. However, stress can be managed. The grooming environment has other cautions for our health as well. Every groomer knows how physical our is but once again, informed groomers can manage both health and stress issues. First, here are our sponsors that make this Industry Resources section possible. Thank you for supporting our sponsors.

    This Industry Directory may include additional companies below that are not advertising sponsors. To apply for a complimentary basic listing click here. Pet grooming businesses are not listed here. See www.findagroomer.com for a free account in the Find A Groomer Directory for Pet Owners.

    By Barbara Bird
    Originally written in 2008 for her GroomWise.com Blog, and now archived here in Resources. Barbara's web site is www.bbird.biz. Please visit her site today.
    Copyright 2011 Barbara Bird All rights reserved

    Conversation among groomers frequently lands on the topic of client lies. To hear us talk, clients are a bunch of liars, telling untruths about how long it's been since Fluffy was last groomed, how often they brush, when mats appeared, the cost of their previous grooming, excuses for missed appointments and any number of things.

    The truth is clients are humans and humans lie. Not just some, but most people lie. In a study at the University of Virginia, Dr. Bella DePaulo found that most subjects lied once or twice a day. Why do people lie? People lie to avoid punishment, confrontation, shame, or loss of self-esteem. They lie for financial gain or to make themselves look better. People are more likely to lie in real time than when they have time to think through a response. A very common reason for lying is to spare someone's feelings. People are most likely to lie when put on the spot, "Do you like this dress?"

    There are some individuals who are more avid liars than others. Some people lie at the drop of a hat, others lie only in extreme circumstances. My own mother was a fluent liar. It was her mechanism of managing the family, especially when feelings were at stake. When lying becomes a survival mechanism that works in one situation, it often spreads to other situations as well. A person who lies at home will lie at work.

    People who have less power in a given relationship are more likely to lie than persons with power, children to parents, wives to husbands, employees to employers. Persons with power will lie to avoid losing that power. People will also lie if they feel they have been lied to. Any way you look at it, lying begets more lying. One lie leads to another. It can become a vicious cycle between persons, or it can become a lifestyle. Lying destroys trust and ruins relationships. It also destroys the ability to trust others. A person who chronically lies is less likely to believe that someone else is telling the truth. A person who is chronically lied to is less likely to trust the next person.

    What does this information have to do with us as pet groomers, i.e. service providers?

    1. We can expect some lying. Our customers are often wanting to save face, avoid consequences, look like good pet owners, avoid our judgment, and sometimes spare our feelings.

    2. The more we take things personally, the more we will be lied to...to spare our feelings. And people who themselves take things personally are more likely to assume that you do also. Pet grooming is a very personal work, and some groomers invest a lot of themselves in their work. But if clients think that you will take it personally if they don't like a style, or have a problem with a product that was used, they are more likely to not tell you, or lie to you about it, and eventually may just disappear.

    3. The more judgmental we are, the more we will be lied to.... to avoid loss of self esteem. If we practice not judging our customers, responding with compassion and understanding, and not taking their actions personally or being too tender, we will be lied to less. If we create an atmosphere where our clients feel good about themselves as pet owners, we establish a margin of self-esteem that can withstand some challenge once in awhile. If we are forgiving, and apply consequences such as extra charges fairly and without a lot of drama, we will be lied to less. If we reward people for telling the truth, by praising their honesty, and expressing appreciation, we will have less lying.

    4. By our own willingness to tell the truth in difficult circumstances, such as messing up an appointment in the book, or failing to communicate clearly about something, we will encourage others to do the same. We cannot eliminate all lies, but we can reduce them by practicing the art of compassion. It takes practice. When we hear that ancient excuse about "overnight matting" in spite of "daily brushing", instead of rolling our eyes and saying "That's impossible!", we can say something like: "Doesn't it just seem like they are fine one day and a mess the next?" "Thanks for bringing him in, now let's see what we can do and how much it's going to cost." Once we remove the guilt and shame, the client is more likely to listen to our explanation of how hair mats from the inside out and how owners often brush from the outside in...blah blah. By being good natured and forgiving, while managing consequences clearly and fairly, the groomer can establish a business that is a "zone of compassion". People will want to return to a relationship where they feel good about themselves and where it easier to tell the truth.

    Kornet, Allison, “The Truth About Lying”, Psychology Today, May/June 1997.
    Komp, Diane, “Anatomy of a Lie”, Zondervan Pub. House, 1998

    Excerpted from: Barbara Bird, "It's Not JUST the Grooming - Communication Skills for Pet Professionals",Second Edition, 2006, Birdzeye Press. All copyrights apply.

    By Barbara Bird
    Originally written in 2009 for her GroomWise.com Blog, and now archived here in Resources. Barbara's web site is www.bbird.biz. Please visit her site today.
    Copyright 2011 Barbara Bird All rights reserved

    Figuring out how much shampoo or conditioner to use to obtain the proper dilution ratio can be confusing to some groomers. Being great at math is not in our necessary skill set. Here is an explanation of how to figure it out, and a chart that gives the amounts of product for 32 ounce mixing bottles and one gallon. I hope this is helpful for someone, because as you were out and about having a life last Saturday night, I was sitting here grappling with the math. Who loves ya'?


    Most products come with a suggested dilution ratio expressed as the parts water per one part product. For example 16:1 would be sixteen parts water to one part shampoo. To determine how much shampoo to mix, first convert the size of your container into ounces (32 oz mixing bottle, 128 ounces for a gallon) and then divide by the ratio desired. In a 32 oz bottle, 16:1 would be 32/16 = 2 ounces shampoo. A gallon amount would be 128/16 = 8 ounces product.

    Here are some common dilutions rounded to the nearest ½ ounce.


    4:1 8 oz. (1 cup) 32 oz. (4 cups)

    8:1 4 oz. (1/2 cup) 16 oz. (2 cups)

    10:1 3 oz. 12 oz. (3/4 cup)

    12:1 2.5 oz. 10.5 oz

    16:1 2 oz. (1/4 cup) 8 oz. (1 cup)

    24:1 1.5 oz. 5 oz.

    32:1 1 oz. 4 oz. ( 1/2 cup)

    50:1 .5 oz. 2.5 oz.

    84:1 (1/3 oz) 1.5 oz.

    For best performance of products, it is important to measure accurately. Failure to measure is a waste of money and can result in poor performance of some products. To avoid product contamination, mix only what you will use in a day or two. Many groomers use a bartender’s shot glass as a measure for mixing shampoos and conditioners. Remember that the average shot glass is 1.5 ounces. A “pony shot” is typically one ounce.

    Excessively hard water may require a slightly higher ratio of shampoo for best performance. High mineral content can impede cleaning ability of surfactants and can require an adjustment. Increase the concentration in small increments. For example, if you are not getting good cleaning at 12:1, change to a 10:1 mixture.

    Pump type bathing systems that recirculate product can perform under entirely different dilutions. For products offering 10:1 or 12:1 dilution, start with a one ounce of shampoo per 1.5 gallons of water. For products suggesting 32:1 dilution, use only ½ ounce shampoo per 1.5 gallons. Adjust according to your results. With conditioners, start with 1-2 ounces per 1.5 gallons water for light conditioning, up to 4 ounces per 1.5 gallons for maximum softening, detangling or deshedding.

    For many groomers it's simply easier if not more fun to work with pets compared to their owners. However we must realize that it's pet owners that drive our finances by paying for grooming services. In this section we will look at ways to make client relations more rewarding and less stressful. First, here are our sponsors that make this Industry Resources section possible. Thank you for supporting our sponsors.

    This Industry Directory may include additional companies below that are not advertising sponsors. To apply for a complimentary basic listing click here. Pet grooming businesses are not listed here. See www.findagroomer.com for a free account in the Find A Groomer Directory for Pet Owners.

    By Barbara Bird
    Originally posted in her GroomWise.com Blog, from her Atlanta presentation in 2008, and now archived here in Resources. Barbara's web site is www.bbird.biz. Please visit her site today.
    Copyright 2011 Barbara Bird All rights reserved

    How does stress show up for you? It is important to be able to identify your own signs of stress. What signals do you get at work that tell indicate that you are in a stress mode? Here are some symptoms of stress that have been identified by mental health professionals.


    Cognitive Signs: Memory problems, indecisiveness, Inability to concentrate, trouble thinking clearly, poor judgment, seeing only the negative, anxious or racing thoughts, constant worrying, loss of objectivity, fearful anticipation.

    Emotional Symptoms: Moodiness, agitation, restlessness, short temper, irritability, impatience, inability to relax, feeling overwhelmed, sense of loneliness or isolation, depression or unhappiness.

    Physical Symptoms: Headaches or backaches, muscle tension and stiffness, diarrhea or constipation, nausea, dizziness, insomnia, chest pain or rapid heartbeat, weight gain or loss, skin breakouts, loss of sex drive, frequent colds.

    Behavioral Symptoms: Eating more or less, sleeping too much or too little, isolating yourself from others, procrastination, neglecting responsibilities, using alcohol, cigarettes, or drugs to relax, nervous habits (e.g., nail biting), teeth grinding or jaw clenching, overdoing activities, exercising, shopping, hobbies), overreacting to unexpected problems, picking fights with others.

    The pressures and demands that cause stress are known as stressors. One person’s stressors may not be all that bad for another. What is stressful depends on many factors, including personality, general outlook on life, problem-solving ability, and available support systems. What are the stressors in your work situation? Identifying your stressors and your signs of stress are key elements in stress management. Stress management is critical to career longevity as a pet groomer.

    External Stressors – Pet groomers share some common causes of stress. Difficult pets, clients with unrealistic expectations, being overbooked, all can push a groomer to the edge. A disorganized workplace, poorly performing equipment, unreasonable employers, coworkers who don’t pull their share of the load or who themselves are acting out their stress, are factors which can create stress.

    Internal Causes of Stress –Not all stress is caused by external pressures and demands. Your stress can also be self-generated. Internal causes of stress include: Uncertainty or worries, pessimistic attitude, self-criticism, unrealistic expectations or beliefs, perfectionism, low self-esteem, unexpressed anger, lack of assertiveness.

    Effects of chronic stress – The human being is designed to withstand short bursts of acute stress. Prolonged stress or “chronic stress” that doesn’t let up can challenge even a well-adjusted person’s ability to adapt. When sustained or severe stress overwhelms our coping resources, serious mental and physical health problems can result.

    Emotional effects - Chronic stress grinds away at your mental health, causing emotional damage in addition to physical ailments. Long-term stress can even rewire the brain, leaving you more vulnerable to everyday pressures and less able to cope. Over time, stress can lead to mental health problems such as: anxiety, depression, eating disorders, and substance abuse. Health effects - Recent research suggests that anywhere from 60 to 90 percent of illness is stress-related. The physical wear and tear of stress includes damage to the cardiovascular system and immune system suppression. Stress compromises your ability to fight off disease and infection, throws your digestive system off balance, makes it difficult to conceive a baby, and can even stunt growth in children. Hypothyroidism, adrenal problems, chronic fatigue and other hormonal imbalances are common to pet groomers and are related to chronic stress. It can also result in high blood pressure, diabetes, heart disease and stroke. Chronic stress is not something that should be accepted as “part of the job”, and should be dealt with or avoided.


    - Don’t be a passive victim of your stressors.

    - Practice Deep Breathing – Stop for a minute and take several deep, full breaths. Deep breathing can actually reduce the physical impact of stress.

    - Aromatherapy works – The Scented Groomer, available through Show Season, has several essential oil products blended especially to help control the effects of stress.

    - The Five Minute Vacation – When you have time, spend a few minutes imagining in detail a vacation retreat spot. Visualize the surroundings, whether it be mountain or beach, and find the sights, sounds and smells that might be there. When you notice yourself losing to your stress response, you can visit your vacation spot for five minutes and get some relief. Don’t just hide out in the bathroom, take a vacation!

    - Don’t Be a Lone Ranger – Even the Lone Ranger had Tonto. Get a groomer buddy and join a support group.

    - Music therapy (note: it only works if YOU like the music)

    - Take a Spiritual Bath –Did a difficult customer or a coworker give you grief? “Wash away” your stress by an imaginary cleansing of your aura, and swoosh off the negative energy into a sink basin or your tub. If this is too far out for you, just splashing the face with cool water can help.

    - Manage Your Mind – Work on your internal stressors to minimize their impact. Create positive thoughts to substitute for negative or pessimistic “tapes” that run you; practice self-praise to replace self-criticism; control perfectionism; honor yourself; practice being assertive with clients.

    - Attend Trade Shows & Seminars – Take home equipment, tools, techniques or ideas that will make a positive impact on the stress you experience at work. Have a plan on how you will implement change. Remember that change, even positive, can be stressful. How can you engage others around you to deal with the stress that your change might involve?

    Actively planning for stress and its management makes the effects of your stressors less powerful.

    By BBird, as presented at Atlanta Pet Fair 2008, all copyrights apply.

    references: Ellen Jaffe–Gill, Melinda Smith, M.A., Heather Larson, and Jeanne Segal, Ph.D. Understanding Stress: Signs, Symptoms, Causes and Effects, www.helpguide.org

    Wet Clipping Handout by Debi Hilley, GroomWise Blogger. Her blog is Grooming Smarter.

    This handout is in PDF format. Click here to download.

    If you don't have a PDF reader, you can get it free at http://www.adobe.com/reader

    By Barbara Bird
    Originally written June 2009 for her GroomWise.com Blog, and now archived here in Resources. Barbara's web site is www.bbird.biz. Please visit her site today.
    Copyright 2011 Barbara Bird All rights reserved

    To what extent is nail clipping the foundation of professional grooming? Are groomers expected to clip nails, no matter what behavior the dog(s) manifest? Is the stress of nail clipping a reason to not do it? These questions are running through my mind as I fume, yes FUME, over the finale of Groomer Has It and Lisa Leady’s failure to win the title Groomer of the Year possibly because of her decision not to clip the nails of a mouthy, distressed, Irish Terrier.

    I will tell you why I am upset. I think one of the big failures of our industry is the failure to acknowledge the importance of grooming stress on animals in our care. Lisa Leady made a decision that “the stress wasn’t worth it” and declined to wrestle down the dog to do the toenails. This decision was totally dishonored by the judging panel. Even the veterinary judge, who last year was such an advocate for the animals, on this matter said, “Why didn’t you just muzzle the dog?” Behavior management was placed above stress management. I hate to see this established as a professional model.

    Two years ago, at a local grooming establishment, a five-year old Boxer died on the table when three people held him down for a nail trim. These groomers were simply doing what it took to get the job done. They managed the behavior without regard for the deadly potential of the stress. It was not the first time I had heard of death-by-nail-clipping. A year before that, I got a frantic call from an inconsolable groomer who had a 16 week old puppy die after being wrestled down for its nails during its first (and last) grooming.

    Doing whatever it takes to get the job done is what I call the “cowgirl” model of grooming. This is how I was taught – put on your Big Girl panties, toughen up, and get the job done. The short coming of this model is that it teaches us regard our work as hand-to-hand combat rather than a challenge of how to do our job with the least amount of stress on the animal. And it fails to recognize the potentially fatal power of stress on animals. Bad behavior is often a manifestation of the inner stress the dog is feeling, but is sometimes regarded as simply “attitude” or retaliatory behavior. The dog is considered bad, not the stress.

    There are times when nail care is clearly demanded, and time when it’s not so clear. When nails are dangerously long, curling under, growing back into the foot pad, or affecting how the dog walks, it can be obvious that nail clipping is worth a little stress. As a matter of routine, however, of Grooming 101, is nail clipping necessary no matter what? How much stress is too much, or how much stress is “worth it”? That’s a judgment call, and if a groomer of the experience and reputation of Lisa Leady is not to have her judgment respected, then what hope do the rest of us have?

    By Barbara Bird
    Originally written June 2009 for her GroomWise.com Blog, and now archived here in Resources. Barbara's web site is www.bbird.biz. Please visit her site today.
    Copyright 2011 Barbara Bird All rights reserved

    I enjoy reading groomers’ descriptions of their bathing rituals, what products they use, the sequence they employ, and how long they let various products “set up” on the coat or skin. These descriptions are shared in the sincere belief that the ritual and timing is as important to the result as the products themselves. Although I honor the value of ritual in giving us confidence in our results, some of these rituals are based on myth and fiction. Today we will look at some facts in the relationship between time and use of pet grooming products.


    MYTH: Leaving a regular shampoo on longer will yield better cleaning.

    FACT: The action of cleansing surfactants is instant.

    FACT: Movement of the cleansing surfactant through the coat is more important to better cleaning than is additional contact time.

    FACT: The possibility of skin irritation from the shampoo detergents (contact dermatitis) is increased with increased contact time. Some detergent cleansing ingredients, such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, that have been removed from many human bubble bath products, because of a high incidence of contact dermatitis following soaking in the products. These same ingredients are used in many pet shampoos.

    FACT: Mechanical action, scrubbing or massaging product through the coat by hand or water pressure through a bathing system, is more important to thorough cleaning than increased contact time.


    FACT: Most antibacterial and antifungal agents require 5-10 minutes of contact time with the skin to be effective. It is important to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the label.

    MYTH: Leaving a medicated shampoo on longer will give better results. Not true, although leaving it on less may compromise the desired results. Leaving a medicated product on longer may risk skin irritation from the detergent ingredients.


    A very basic generalization is that agents that require penetration of the skin or hair cuticle need time to do this. Penetration is never instant. Conditioning ingredients that have been made cationic and simply attach to the hair surface, can do so quickly without set up time. Most conditioning agents are of this type. The best indication of what type of ingredients are in a conditioner are the instructions on the label. If the label says to leave the product on for 2-5 minutes (or more, as in a remoisturizer), it means that it requires that time for full effect. If the label does not suggest a time frame, most likely the product acts quickly.

    Another way to tell if conditioning ingredients are cationic is to look for the suffix –onium. This means that the ingredient has been “quaternized” or made cationic. This clue, of course, only works for products where the manufacturer discloses ingredients.

    CONCLUSION: Many conditioning agents, especially more sophisticated ingredients, act instantly and do not require long “set up” time. Old-fashioned ingredients, and many less chemically sophisticated agents require time to work. For many regular conditioners, there is no benefit from greater contact time than is suggested on the label.


    Texturizing is usually accomplished either by adding stiffening ingredients, or omitting ingredients that soften the coat. Texturizing products do not usually require extended contact time. Bodifiers may require penetration of the hair cuticle. An example of a bodifier that needs a few minutes of extra contact time would be Chris Christensen Thick N’ Thicker Foaming Protein. Spray-on products usually have instant effect. Again, the manufacturers instructions are your best clue. The best practice is to use a timer to be accurate in your set-up time.


    Flea and tick products almost always require a few minutes of contact to be effective, especially the more natural ingredients. Leaving products on for longer than the manufacturer’s instructions, however, can lead to irritation or even toxicity. Putting pesticidal or medicated products on pets and leaving them sit in a cage while the groomer does other things risks overexposure to either the active ingredients or the detergent surfactants.


    This is another group of products that requires careful timing and care in use. It is important to use color enhancing shampoos on thoroughly wet coat unless otherwise instructed, and for only the recommended contact time. If too much pigment is deposited under the hair cuticle lens, you will have a dye job instead of color enhancement.

    There are very few products where lengthy contact time has better effects. In terms of shampoos, extended contact beyond that recommended on the label may risk contact dermatitis or toxicity. Color enhancing ingredients, bodifiers, and some deep conditioning ingredients may benefit from extended contact, but many ordinary shampoos and conditioners work very quickly and extra “set-up” time is wasted. Anionic cleansing surfactants and cationic conditioning ingredients work instantly, like magnets, and thorough application is more beneficial than more contact time. Always read and follow the instructions on the label. And remember, time equals money.

    By Barbara Bird
    Originally posted in her GroomWise.com Blog, and now archived here in Resources. Barbara's web site is www.bbird.biz. Please visit her site today.
    Copyright 2011 Barbara Bird All rights reserved

    As summer approaches and things begin to heat up in our workplaces, it is important to review the facts related to heat stress. The following article was published on the GroomBlog in June, 2006.

    In the wake of another newspaper story of a pet death occurring in a grooming salon, apparently from the unattended use of a heated cage dryer on a puppy named "Phoebe", it is of vital importance that all professional groomers review our operations and become acutely aware of the possibility of heat stress and heat exhaustion in ANY grooming environment.

    It is common following a fatal accident at the groomers that other professionals immediately distance themselves from the unfortunate event. In other words, rather than thinking "There for the grace of God go I", the groomers say, "THAT could never happen to me." How quickly we play the Blame Game, naming the person who left the puppy in the heated cage, the shop where it occurred (we have a 'salon', THEY have a 'shop'), the use of a heated dryer, the failure to use a timer on the dryer, the manufacturer for selling a dryer that gets too hot and does not shut off automatically when the temperature reaches a certain point, or even the question that the dog may have had a health problem, or a predisposition to heat stroke. SOMEONE must be held responsible!

    Accidents happen when a number of factors line up. Such as:

    A self-absorbed bather steps outside for an extended smoke break.

    A dog is left unattended in a cage with a heated dryer going.

    The dryer does not have a automatic timer or shut off.

    There is tension between the bathing staff and management, and management is letting them "cool off", and is not providing supervision to the back room.

    No procedures for use of cage dryers or signs of heat exhaustion are posted.

    It is a high volume, high stress operation and it is easy for 1/2 an hour to slip by.

    Groomers are focused on what's happening on their tables, not what's happening in cages.

    It's hot in the grooming room to start with and everyone is just dealing with it.

    Time is of the essence so the dryer is cranked up on high.

    Temporary summer help does not necessarily know the signs of heat exhaustion in the pet, or how fast it can happen.

    Any one or two of these factors could occur without a fatality resulting. But should they line up, you have a recipe for disaster. In order to prevent fatalities and illnesses related to heat stress at our jobs, we have to constantly be aware of ALL the factors ALL the time.

    Here is something else that we should all look at: Dogs AS A SPECIES are predisposed to heat exhaustion. Heat exhaustion occurs when the ambient (surrounding) temperature and humidity are above tolerable levels and the animal's body begins to acquire heat from the environment faster than it can dissipate that heat. In dogs and cats that have very few sweat glands to begin with the only means of dissipating excess body heat is via panting. This movement of air over the moist tongue and airway surfaces increases evaporative cooling (unless the ambient humidity is 100 percent). Unfortunately, panting is a rather inefficient means of dissipating body heat and actually generates some heat due to the muscle activity involved. Keep in mind that as an animal is confined to a closed space the expired air, which is at 100 percent humidity and 102 degrees, will eventually increase the ambient humidity and temperature of the animal's space. (petcenter.com Heat Stroke in Dogs).

    Heat exhaustion is not just a function of temperature. The factors that may interact to create heat stress and can lead to heat exhaustion or heat stroke are: Room air temperature, external heat source, humidity, confinement, ventilation and air circulation, animal's ability to breathe and pant. Availability of drinking water is another factor.

    Humidity level is a big factor in how much evaporation can occur. Evaporation affects not only the hair drying, but the dog/cat's ability to dissipate the heat. When the ambient humidity reaches 100%, the panting-cooling mechanism is worthless. Since the dog is exhaling 100% humid air, the size and structure of the confined space is another important variable. Also, the dog is exhaling hot air, 102 degrees, so an unventilated small box can become deadly at a very low external heat, even as low as 85 degrees.

    The practice of covering a cage with a dryer on it can be deadly, even if the dryer heat is less than 100 degrees, because the dog itself is heating and humidifying the air inside. Even without an external heat source, a covered cage can become an oven, especially if there is an excitable dog in there, or an animal with compromised cooling ability. Having water available can help, as water on the tongue cools down the air the dog is inhaling and helps to regulate the internal temperature.


    There are certain dogs or certain conditions that make heat exhaustion more of a concern:

    Dogs with short noses, pushed in faces, or poor breathing mechanisms. Shih Tzu, pugs, pekingese, boxers, bulldogs, are all at high risk of rapid heat exhaustion. Shar Pei have also been identified.

    Don't forget persian cats.

    Dogs with collapsed trachea or respiratory problems. Any dog that is wheezing, coughing, breathing heavily or shallow breathing.

    Muzzled dogs - Dogs wearing muzzles cannot breathe or pant efficiently on warm days. Heat strokes have been reported in dogs standing under a grooming parlor dryer while muzzled.

    Fat dogs.

    Very old dogs.

    Very young dogs.

    Dogs with heart difficulties.

    Dogs with hypothyroidism or Cushings Disease that have trouble with internal temperature regulation.

    Dogs on certain medications, especially diuretics.

    Excessively excitable dogs or dogs who are distressed from separation or kennel anxiety. According to Joy Butler, a writer for Suite 101, "Some dogs can have a heat stroke in an air conditioned room if they become overexcited and active."

    Dogs that arrive overheated, from a ride in a hot car, or having been heavily exercised.
    Dogs that have previously experienced heat exhaustion or heat stroke.

    Another important factoid that is worthy of repeating: The dog's breath being exhaled is 102 degrees and 100 percent humidity. Put that dog in a poorly ventilated crate, and there could be overheating without the presence of an external heat source, especially if the room hair is warm and humid. Add another couple of factors, such as no one watching dogs in crates, or a dog with a breathing problem to start with and again you have a line-up of the Universe that could lead to an accident.

    A misconception that we must dispell is that a dog that is overheating is going to get frantic and somehow signal to us that it's dying. NOT SO! A dog is not necessarily going to try to claw its way out of a hot cage, nor is it always able to bark if it is busy hyperventilating. The dog can just sit or lay there and stare out and be overcome.


    Rapid, frantic panting
    Wide eyes, fixed stare
    Not responsive, "out of it".
    Thick saliva
    Bright red tongue, or blue-grey tongue and gums
    Staggering, inability to stand


    Not all of these symptoms need to be present. If a dog is panting, has a staring expression, is unresponsive and has a cherry red tongue, you've got a problem. If a dog has vomiting and diarrhea and is unable to stand, you've got a problem. What will tell you if you have heat stroke is obtaining a rectal temperature. Every first aid kit should contain a rectal thermometer. If the pet's temperature is over 104 degrees, you've got an emergency. The dog should be cooled and transported to the nearest vet immediately. If the temperature is 106 or hovering around 106, you have a life threatening situation. You should take measures to rapidly reduce the temperature. Each minute at that temperature can mean brain damage and irreversible damage to internal organs. Cool the dog. Placing wet towels on the dog and putting him under a fan is one way. Wetting the groin area also can help. When the temperature cools to 104 or 103, stop cooling efforts or you may cause a too rapid loss of temperature.


    Monitor room temperature and humidity, and temperature inside cages, especially if there is a heated cage dryer in use. Digital thermometers are available that are the size of credit cards and can clip to the inside of kennels. (WalMart)

    When using heat producing dryers, especially cage dryers, use timers. With the right line-up of factors, fatal heat stroke can happen in 15 minutes. This is why the 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off for cool down, is recommended procedure. Some groomers use backup timers in case the timer on the dryer fails or you don't hear it.

    Do not muzzle dogs in heated cage dryers or on tables with hot air dryers.

    Clearly establish that pet safety is the responsibility of every employee.

    Post the signs of heat exhaustion in a conspicuous place.

    Consider using fans - many groomers have moved away from using heated cage dryers and use fans around wire cages or ambient air dryers like the Sahara Turbo.

    Improve room air circulation - adding exhaust ventilation to the bathing room, or placing fans around your premises in such a way that air is constantly moving helps make cooler air available to your pet guests.

    Consider investing in a dehumidifier - with dogs exhaling 100% humidity, and high velocity dryers forcing water off dogs and into the air, the chances are your drying room could have high enough humidity level that it could be adding to the risk of heat stress. This possibility is greatly increased if you are using swamp cooling rather than air conditioning or work in a area of high humidity. Not only will this investment make your premises more safe for animal guests and employees, the dehumidifying will reduce drying times.

    Have water available for your guests. A really nice gesture is to have a bowl of water or a recirculating fountain system near the front door of your establishment. Dogs can cool off after their trip, and owners can see that you are aware and care. In the back, dogs at risk or dogs having an extended stay (over three hours) should be offered water.


    It is important to recognize that heat stress and the potential for heat exhaustion and fatal heat stroke are a concern for all pet grooming operations. Although heated cage dryers and solid wall cages are a formula for potential problems, it is not the drying method nor the equipment that is to blame for pet deaths. Accidents happen when heat is not used responsibly, and the danger of heat and animals is not appreciated. All employees need to be aware of the signs of heat exhaustion and the animals at higher risk. Risk factors need to be determined by asking the right questions of the owner.

    Whether or not a groomer continues to use heat producing cage dryers is a professional choice. These dryers have been around for decades and are used responsibly in hundreds, maybe thousands of grooming establishments each day without incident. Automobiles are involved in fatal accidents; is that a reason to stop driving? No. We try to make cars safer. Cage dryers can be made safer by the installation of internal timers, heat sensors and automatic shut off, and such. Groomers who wish to continue using heated cage dryers need to start asking for safety features, and appreciating that saving one little life is far more important than having a dryer without an (annoying) timer that shuts it off before the dog is dry.

    Even groomers who refuse to use heated dryers are not immune to the problems of heat stress, however. Given the right line-up of factors - a hot back room, humidity that has accumulated during hours of high velocity drying, an animal with a compromised respiratory system or a heart condition, and whammo - IT COULD HAPPEN TO YOU! What makes the matter so important is that the internal effects of heat stroke can be irreversible and if a dog survives, it can be messed up for life or live a considerably shorter life.

    In the summer months it is important that all groomers raise their alert level to the possibility of an overheating incident happening.

    By Barbara Bird
    Originally written April 2010 for her GroomWise.com Blog, and now archived here in Resources. Barbara's web site is www.bbird.biz. Please visit her site today.
    Copyright 2011 Barbara Bird All rights reserved

    In the effort to join the Green Revolution, we often see ingredients described on labels as being “from coconut”. It may look like this: Cleansing Surfactants (from Coconut). There is a name for this kind of marketing tactic of making chemical ingredients appear natural. It’s called “Green Washing.” Let’s look at how a surfactant is made and the journey from the coconut. We will use Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, a detergent surfactant often found in pet shampoos.


    First we have to extract the coconut oil from the coconut. The meat of the coconut is removed and dried in kilns to produce a product called “copra”. The copra is then placed in a hydraulic press and the oil is expelled. This produces virgin coconut oil which is further refined by additional heating and filtering to provide RBD oil (refined, bleached and deodorized. So far, we are still natural.


    The coconut oil is then heated in water in the presence of sodium hydroxide. This converts the coconut oil into fatty acids, lauric acid and glycerin. This is a chemical process, and it’s only step two. Lauric Acid is also obtained from Palm Kernel Oil.


    The lauric acid is then converted into fatty alcohol through a process of hydrogenation. Hydrogenation involves adding hydrogen atoms to the acid molecule. According to Wikipedia “Hydrogenation has three components, the unsaturated substrate, the hydrogen (or hydrogen source), and, invariably, a catalyst. The reaction is carried out at different temperatures and pressures depending upon the substrate and the activity of the catalyst.”

    This is chemistry! The Lauryl Alcohol at this point bears little resemblance to the original coconut and shares few if any properties of the coconut oil.


    The lauryl alcohol is then converted into lauryl sulfate through a process called sulfonation. There are plants that carry out this process. The Chemithon technology was developed by research and development in Seattle. Here is a diagram of the sulfonation process by Chemithon

    1 Process Air and Sulfur Supply System
    2 Feedstock
    3 SO3 Gas Generator System
    4 Sulfonator System
    5 SO3 Absorber System
    6 Neutralizer System
    7 Exhaust Gas Clean-up System
    8 Final Product


    In the final step (whew!), the lauryl sulfate is reacted with sodium hydroxide to form sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). When the lauryl sulfate is reacted with ammonia instead of sodium hydroxide, you have ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS). When triethanol amine (TEA) is used, you have TEA lauryl sulfate. Both ALS and TEA lauryl sulfate are used as alternatives to SLS.

    Voila! Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. So now you know. You know that there is a significant chemical journey from the coconut to the shampoo bottle. You know that Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is hardly a natural substance, although it is derived from a natural substance. Green washing is the psychological ploy of associating something natural with something synthetic to make the chemical appear more natural. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (from coconut) is the same detergent surfactant that has been around for decades, with a green shirt on.

    Mobile Efficiency by Ellen Ehrlich from her GroomWise Blog, http://groomwise.typepad.com/go_mobile_and_succeed/

    When you’re grooming in a mobile vehicle time is of the essence. I’ve always said as soon as I enter my van the clock starts ticking and it’s true. Since I became a mobile grooomer Father Time has taken on a whole new meaning. Every moment counts.

    I have developed a few simple routines that work very well for me in the van.

    Having everything you need right at your fingertips is key. Since my van has such a limited amount of storage, I only have room for the tools and supplies I need on a day-to-day basis. Every so often I go through my drawers and shelves and take stock of what I have. At the same time, I clean, wipe and blow out the hair that always seems to find a place to hide. Nothing feels as good as looking though your belongings and finding everything neat and organized.

    At every appointment I always run a bath before I get the dog. I lay out all the tools I need. This includes shears, clippers, blades, SS combs, brushes and ear powder. When I bring the dog into the van I put a bow on the collar right off the bat. Then I buff the nails and pluck the ears if need be - then right into the tub.

    Maybe this sounds a bit OCD but I like to stagger my chamois and towels next to the tub. This way, when I reach for them, I don’t have to restack the pile. I like neat. Right next to the tub I have my hoodies, flea combs, a rubber curry, a deshedding brush and cotton balls. I love the pumper that releases the ear cleaner when you press a cotton ball on top. It keeps you from missing a beat as you go through the grooming process.

    I feel that drying is the biggest challenge in a mobile van. It is a huge time eater. We all know the trick of using towels; one to catch the water as we HV the dog: having the dog sit on a dry towel to absorb even more. I place the dryer nozzle right on the skin, blowing the water away from the dog and into the towel as I gently rub. I use the highest speed the dog will comfortably accept. A hoodie on the head works great absorbing water as it buffers the dryer noise and keeps the forced air from blowing into or near the ear canal. I like to let the long floppy ears hang out of the hoodie so I can dry them along with the rest of the dog. My goal is to dry that dog 95% while still in the tub. I hate finding wet or damp spots when I start the fluffing process. That will slow you down immensely.

    I have a grooming routine that I follow that works well for me. I always groom the face first for two reasons. It seems more natural to me because I am looking right at the dog. The second reason I like to start with the face is because it gives me the opportunity to take a second look when I am done grooming the body. We have such a limited amount of time with our dogs that we need to make the most of it. Having a second look is important. After the face I trim the ears and tail because sometimes these parts can be an afterthought.

    I groom every head with a cordless trimmer and snap on combs. If the dog is small or doesn’t need much trimming I stay with the trimmer. If not I switch to my full size clipper and vac system. I use on the vac on every dog that gets a full haircut. This is a must have tool in a mobile van. It means less clean up for you, gives a great finish for the dog and keeps you healthy as it sucks up the hair as you clip.

    Do not be afraid of a vac system. When I got my van I had never used one before but I jumped right in and used it on the first dog on my table. There are just so many benefits. Start out with a longer blade or snap on comb, keeping in mind, the vac will take the hair shorter because the suction is pulling the hair closer to the blade. This is a valuable tool for mobilers. Once you get the hang of it you’ll wonder how you lived without it.

    After the haircut I look at the dog. Then I put my dryer on low and blow the hair around. I look for sticky outies. I comb it up and look again and snip. Sometimes, I’ll go over the dog with my cordless trimmer with a comb attachment to just take off the fuzzies. I use as long a comb as possible. Remember, I am not cutting cut into the hair. Just removing any stragglers that I’ve missed.

    I do put things away and clean as I work. I vacuum up the hair after I’ve used the trimmer. I’m big on multitasking. Everything gets put right back into its place when I am done using it. After the dog is finished, I vacuum one more time. When I take a look around everything is organized and ready for the next appointment. When I return the dog to the house the van needs to be presentable just in case somebody walks by and wants to take a peek inside.

    The biggest time saving tip is developing your own grooming routine. Do what works best for you! There is no right way and no wrong way. Working systematically will give you the best results and even save you time at the end of the day. Remember, if you can carve ten minutes off each groom each day you can groom another dog or get home one hour earlier!
    Published on 01-09-11 02:32 PM

    Salvage Work by Melissa Verplank, from her GroomWise Blog http://groomwise.typepad.com/melissa_verplank/.

    As many of you know, I'm a big dog person. Working on these large furry dogs that have a huge shedding problem is one of my favorite things to do in a grooming salon. I know, I know, call me crazy -- but I just love seeing the transformation in this type of job. Over the years I've gotten really quick with the process and rarely cringe, no matter what the size of the dog, nor the condition -- I see it as a fun challenge!

    My #1 rule is: Never work on a dirty dog. If water can penetrate the coat, let your products do the job.

    Working on a dirty dog is not only unpleasant, but it also takes longer to do . Plus, there will be a lot of coat damage and breakage. A dirty coat is dry and brittle. The dirt and dander trapped within the fur makes it more difficult to brush out. Working on a clean coat will be easier for both you and the pet – and much more pleasant.

    If there are large chunks that water cannot penetrate, go ahead and break up the tangle using the tool that is safe for the pet. Don't worry about removing it completely, just break it apart so the water and shampoo can do its job.

    Prepare your bathing area. If the dog is exceptionally dirty, use the shampoo especially designed for dirty dogs. Using a follow-up treatment of a skin and coat conditioner after bathing twice (or maybe three times in some areas) will assist with the brush out and dead coat removal during the drying process. Make sure you have all the tools you'll need to aid in getting the dog clean like rubber curries or scrub brushes. And make sure you have plenty of towels handy.

    My favorite trick when working with this type of job is to bring my high velocity dryer right into the bathing area. With the dog fully lathered, blow the shampoo right off the pets while they are tethered in the tub. The slippery soap will allow the dirt, loose coat, and tangles slide out, being trapped in the shampoo and sticking to the back wall of the tub, minimizing the mess. Not all the shedding coat or mats will be removed but a lot will, making your job easier once you transfer to the drying table. Once you have blown out the pet, follow up with the rinsing process. Repeat this process as many times as necessary to get the dog “squeaky clean.”

    Once the pet is clean and thoroughly rinsed, apply a skin and coat conditioning treatment before heading to the drying table. Read your directions: some conditioning treatments need to be rinsed out while others do not. Your high velocity dryer and a heavy slicker brush will be your best friends during the drying process.

    Rule # 2: Be Methodical and Thorough

    First, blow out as much moisture and loose coat at possible with the air flow. Use the highest power setting the pet is comfortable with, and a condenser cone. Once you have pushed as much water and loose fur from the pet, remove the condenser cone, and bring the air flow close to the pet’s skin. “Boost” any loose coat out of the dog by lightly patting the area where the air is striking the skin with a slicker brush.

    Continue to work over the dog in a methodical manner until your brush glides through the coat easily and no more loose coat is trapped in the brush.

    Rule #3 – ENJOY!

    When the dog is complete, it should smell clean and fresh. The coat should be glossy and float freely as the dog moves. There should be an irresistible desire to reach down and bury your hands in a freshly groomed pet.

    by Danelle German, CFMG, CFCG www.nationalcatgroomers.com

    Winter is upon us. For much of the world that means some rather cold temperatures. Clients who normally opt for the lion cut for their feline during the warmer months may be looking for some cold weather alternatives. Usually their goal is to cut down on shedding as much as possible. Along with shedding comes the all-to-annoying hair ball. Getting rid of both problems is a top priority for many cat owners, whether they live with a long hair or short hair cat.

    Any groomer should be able to offer their clients some alternatives to the lion cut when the temperatures dip into the freezing zone. Even if a cat is indoor-only, it will appreciate having some coat left on it during those colder spells. The Comb Cut is a great winter-time option. Leaving the coat anywhere from 1/2" to 1" in length gives kitty a bit warmth while still providing the owner with some way of meeting their less-shed, fewer-hair balls objective.

    Because the Comb Cut should be done after the bath and blow dry, a groomer can and should charge more for this style. It essentially require the groomer doing two grooms in one. First a full coat groom, giving kitty a thorough degreasing bath, show-quality blow dry, and finishing comb out. A sanitary clip and/or belly shave can also be given, depending upon client preference and the condition of the cat. Then, at the end of the full coat groom, a comb cut is performed, leaving the cat with some coat, similar to the regrowth length some 2-3 months after a standard lion cut.

    A Comb Cut is best performed using some type of suction (Clipper Vac/Taxi Vac) attached to the clipper that has a #30 blade and a snap on comb. We prefer the Wahl Stainless Steel snap-ons over the plastic varieties simply because they glide through cat hair so effortlessly (provided it is properly cleaned and prepped). The finish is thick and plush and rather eye-catching on many breeds of cats, even the DLHs.

    If shedding is a major issue, follow up with a de-shedding treatment at the very end of the groom. This adds yet one more service which increases the groom cost AND satisfies the customer's desire to cut down on shedding and subsequent hair balls. A win, win, win for groomer, cat and customer!

    For more details and step-by-step instructions on the Comb Cut and more grooming styles for cats, check out the Ultimate Cat Groomer Encyclopedia (www.nationalcatgroomers.com).

    After the full coat groom, getting ready to start the comb cut.

    The final comb cut

    After the full coat groom, getting ready to begin a comb cut.

    After the comb cut.

    by Madeline Bright Ogle, author From Problems to Profits

    Prevention will always be the most effective policy to counter pet accidents. As a pet grooming business owner, you face many risks in the operation of your business. In ...

    Snout to Tail Assessment Form by Pet Tech

    Mary Oquendo, GroomWise Blogger, discussed this form in her article, Professional Check-in Procedures, now published here.

    Mary has made arrangements for readers like you to view and use this form, but you must leave the Pet Tech logo on the form intact. This form is copyrighted by Pet Tech and you may only use it for your personal use. Downloading this form represents your agreement to fully abide by this stipulation.

    Form Details: Adobe PDF format. Requires free Adobe Reader, www.adobe.com/reader
    File size: 193K

    Jodi Murphy's line of professional grooming apparel was designed by Jodi, one of the top groomers in the USA, for groomers as well as barbers and beauticians. It is made from the highest quality nylon manufactured in the United States. Everyone knows that when you look good you feel good. This line of fashionable grooming apparel features fitted tops as well as slimming tops to make everyone look their best. Jodi works very closely with her apparel company in NYC and guarantees the workmanship against manufacturing defects. New styles and colors will be brought into this line on a regular basis. Be sure to join Jodi’s mailing list for updates on all her products. To view the line click here.


    For many years PetGroomer.com has tracked thousands of grooming business names in the US. Now for your enjoyment you can review these public records too. We've scored many sources of business names including phone directories to bring you this list of thousands of business names for fun. Please see disclaimer, these names may be protected by their legal owners and not used by you.

    Click the icon below to go start your search.

    Have fun!

    If you are a grooming business owner we encourage and appreciate your taking a pricing survey with us every year. We are now inviting our Canadian and Australian ...

    No one has ever taken more surveys in the grooming industry. We are talkin' in the hundreds of thousands of surveys including career seekers, mobile groomers and business owners, and more! Below you will find helpful results to better understand the grooming industry and our sponsors that make the expensive task of operating a complex survey system possible. Thank you for supporting our sponsors.

    Thousands of pet owners find their way to PetGroomer.com and many are looking for how to groom their pets, or more often, a groomer.

    We certainly ...

    For many years PetGroomer.com has tracked not only the population of pet owners, but also pet grooming businesses. Now you can discover how many grooming businesses are in your US state. Watch for new 2010 results to be posted in early 2011.


    Have fun!

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    Most grooming suppliers wholesale treats and toys and other items you can sell to your clients. You can find a list of supplier here in Resources in the Grooming Suppliers section. You can expand your search for specialty retail with more sources below. Just the advertising alone in these favorite magazines may lead you to unique specialty ...
    Article Preview

    Since 2000 there has been a sharp increase in the number of pet boutiques with grooming. No wonder. Studies show that retail environments record up to 30% more in retail sales when services like grooming are also offered. The foot traffic of the grooming clients increases retail sales, and no pet care service is more frequency based than grooming. Solid grooming clients can be counted to come in every 4 to 12 weeks.

    Pet boutiques, like pet salons and shops, are typically in commercial locations located in upscale areas. They rarely qualify as a home-based business, and of course they are not a mobile operation although some may own a mobile and provide that extra service, including delivery of retail goods and bags of pet food (usually holistic brands).

    Pet boutiques can be anywhere from 500 to 1,000 ...

    Most grooming suppliers wholesale treats and toys and other items you can sell to your clients. You can find a list of supplier here in Resources in the Grooming Suppliers section. You can expand your search for specialty retail with more sources below. Just the advertising alone in these favorite magazines may lead you to unique specialty retail not commonly found in pet stores. Plus, great articles!

    You can refer to grooming trade magazines in the Books, DVDs and Magazine section of this site (see link in right column). Here are some of our favorite sources for exclusive specialty pet retail:

    Bark Magazine

    Modern Dog Magazine


    In addition to pet grooming trade shows here are some pet retail tradeshows to consider. Some of these shows do have grooming features but they are primarily retail product oriented with growing emphasis on boutique trends. Find grooming trade show info here in the Trade Show and Events section of Resources and we have a Calendar feature in the Forums section here. We also discuss trade shows on the Forum as well as sharing our intent to be at events and perhaps meet other members at them.

    Barkleigh Productions - Multiple Shows

    Global Pet Expo

    Groom Classic


    Luxury Pet Pavilion

    H.H. Backer Shows

    Pet Fashion Week

    US Pet Pro Classic by ISCC


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